Be one of the first to discover Riverbend, the newest Creole eatery in Soulard. New Orleans native Sam Kogos opened the kitchen this month with his cousin, Steve Daney as chef. He cooks up regular menu items like Doc Sewall oysters, chicken andouille gumbo and crabmeat stuffed shrimp.
The food’s done right, from the soups to desserts. Daney doesn’t blink as he stirs a chocolate roux smoky dark for seafood gumbo, served on Fridays. It’s stocked with shrimp, oysters and catfish cooked to succulent and not a step beyond. Expect perfect okra, a touch of smoky sausage and tender, fluffy rice. Red beans and rice appears only on Mondays.
Try the po-boys. They’re too big to hold with just one hand. Order them dressed with lettuce, tomato, pickles and mayo. The roast beef po-boy is served New Orleans style in a rich brown gravy and the Cochon de Lait pork is served with Creole mayonnaise. Both are made with house-roasted meats.
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Daily specials like smothered chicken with crawfish dressing and mean maque choux couldn’t be better. The chicken was tender, the fine-crumb dressing buttery-sweet and the corn had a hint of smoke.
A friend who ordered the shrimp Creole pronounced it perfectly seasoned. No additional hot sauce need apply.
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No worries if there is a less adventuresome palate in your posse. Riverbend offers standards like chicken salad, grilled cheese, tuna salad, roast beef, turkey and ham sandwiches.
It's cozy inside Riverbend with less than ten tables and a dozen or so bar stools. Expect sidewalk and patio dining when weather warms up. And I’m resigned to waiting for a table, once the word gets out on this gem of a menu.
Pat Kogos, married to Sam, led us to this little bit of Creole heaven. Sam Kogos is no stranger to Creole food. He owned Rendon Inn in New Orleans for 15 years where Chef Daney ran the kitchen.
In the meantime, I’ll tuck in the dirty rice and the salads with housemade dressings, the peel-and-eat shrimp with rémoulaude sauce. The so-rich oyster bread, plump with oysters in a creamy dressing slathered on French bread and then broiled is heavenly. Save room for bread pudding with whiskey sauce.
Expect to spend about $7 a dish. Lunch Mon-Sat, 11 a.m.- 3 p.m. Dinner every day 5 - 10 p.m. except Sunday and Tuesday. 701 Utah St. in Soulard.